The engagement ring is a jewel which carries emotion in itself, often embodying the expectations of both the giver and the recipient. The decision rests on a clear understanding of the materials, the quality of the gemstones and the style which best reflects the identity of the person who will wear it.
The ideal engagement ring is one which balances longevity, proportion and meaning, respecting tradition, individuality, the dream of the person who wears it and the relationship that inspired it.
What Defines an Engagement Ring?
Traditionally, the engagement ring is conceived as a central piece, often featuring a precious stone, usually a diamond, set in a way which highlights its presence and luminosity.
Three fundamental elements can be distinguished:
- The central precious stone
- The precious metal of the setting
- The classic, contemporary or unique design
The harmony between these three factors determines the final quality of the piece.
How to Choose the Diamond?
The diamond remains the classic choice, not only for its high degree of hardness, but also for its unique ability to reflect light (to sparkle) from which the name “brilliant” derives.
The quality criteria are based on four essential characteristics:
- Carat: determines the size of the stone
- Cut: determines the diamond’s ability to sparkle, through the way light is reflected
- Colour: the more colourless, the greater the value. An exception applies to diamonds of intense colour.
- Clarity: measures the presence of inclusions
An excellent cut is decisive, as it directly influences the diamond’s sparkle.
Which Stone or Gemstone Should You Choose?
The gemstone traditionally used in engagement rings was the pearl, as a symbol of purity and because of its association with bridal jewellery.
Couples would choose whichever gemstone suited them best, in the colour they preferred. One need only recall Princess Diana’s famous ring, with its central stone: a 12-carat Ceylon sapphire in royal blue.
The use of diamonds in jewellery evolved considerably, owing much to advances in technology which enabled precise cutting, revealing their characteristic sparkle caused by the refraction of light. In antiquity and the Middle Ages, due to their extreme hardness, diamonds were used either in their rough state or with only basic cutting.
In Europe, the marketing slogan “A Diamond is Forever“ brought significant growth to the diamond market.
In Portuguese Jewellery (16th–18th centuries), Rui Galopim de Carvalho highlights the evolution of cuts in Portugal, focusing on the use of large rose-cut diamonds in civil jewellery from the second half of the 17th century and, later, on the impact of the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in the 18th century.
Today, although the diamond is the standard, pearls are making a return as a choice for brides seeking a classic, vintage style, even though they are gemstones that require extra care.
What Is the Best Metal for an Engagement Ring?
The choice of metal should take into account resistance, aesthetics and everyday wear throughout a lifetime.
Gold
Gold remains the most classic option. In Portugal, 19.2-carat gold is distinguished by its resistance and durability, while also allowing for technical craftsmanship.
- Yellow gold: timeless, warm and traditional.
- White gold: discreet and contemporary. Gold is naturally yellow, so it may lose its white tone over time, requiring periodic maintenance of the piece.
- Rose gold: soft, with a distinctive character.
Platinum
Rarer and denser, platinum offers high resistance to wear and a naturally white tone.
- Ideal for intensive wear
- High durability
- A sober and stable appearance over time
It is the most characteristic material for an engagement ring.
Choosing the Right Style
The design of the ring reflects the personality of the person who will wear it and the thoughtfulness of the person offering it, avoiding fleeting trends.
Consider asking close friends or the person’s mother or father for help. Take note of rings from the collection of the person who will wear it, so that advisers, jewellers or designers can interpret the style of jewellery they like.
When making the purchase, bring a ring the person wears frequently so that the correct measurements can be taken.
Solitaire
A single central stone. It is the classic and timeless form.
Halo
A central stone surrounded by a set of smaller diamonds, enhancing the sparkle and adding dimension to the central stone.
Trilogy
Three stones symbolising the past, present and future.
Contemporary design
Bolder or more minimalist lines, often with modern interpretations of tradition.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Prioritising only the size of the diamond at the expense of the jewel as a whole
- Choosing a style which is not aligned with the personal taste of both the giver and the recipient
- Failing to consider daily wear
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best diamond for an engagement ring?
A diamond with an excellent cut, good clarity and good colour offers the best balance between sparkle and value.
Is 19-carat gold suitable for daily wear?
Yes. It offers high quality and resistance, and is particularly valued in traditional Portuguese jewellery.
Platinum or white gold: which should you choose?
Platinum is the preferred choice. It is more resistant and its white colour is natural. White gold tends to yellow or lose its shine over time.
What is the most timeless style?
The solitaire ring remains the classic choice.
Choosing an engagement ring should not be rushed. It is a piece intended to endure, both materially and symbolically. A rigorous understanding of its elements will allow for a confident, discreet and truly meaningful decision.
Come and choose your engagement ring 4 to 6 months in advance. This way, you can take your time choosing or develop a unique model to your taste.
It is for life.